Sunday, May 18, 2008 | Food, Reviews
Artful appeal

New chef de cuisine at Table 1280 pairs innovative culinary techniques with seasonal freshness

By Kirsten Ott



In a city overflowing with top-notch dining destinations, it’s a challenge for a restaurant to make its mark. A favorite with the swanky Euro set, Table 1280 manages to do so, one creative stroke of genius at a time. The Renzo Piano–designed restaurant opened to much acclaim in November 2005 as part of the $124 million expansion and renovation of the High Museum of Art. Located on the grounds of the Woodruff Arts Center, Table 1280 is a natural choice for meals before or after visiting the museum, the Alliance Theatre, the Atlanta Symphony Orchestra and the 14th Street Playhouse. However, discerning insiders know that Table 1280 is a destination in and of itself, attracting art aficionados, theatergoers, classical music buffs and educated foodies.



CHANGING OF THE GUARD

Former sous chef Tracey Bloom recently took over the kitchen at Table 1280 as the new chef de cuisine. Bloom’s resume reads like a Who’s Who of winning restaurants in the Southeast. The Culinary Institute of America grad launched her career at Sia’s in Duluth as the founding pastry chef. She then joined the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group, mastering her culinary wisdom at 103 West. From there, she circled the Perimeter: Asher Restaurant in Roswell, then Oscar’s Restaurant in College Park (now the Pecan). She migrated south in 2005 to open Concentrics-owned Luma in Winter Park, Fla., as sous chef. After the departure of Shaun Doty in summer 2006, Table 1280’s opening executive chef who left to start his own restaurant, Bloom sojourned to Atlanta to continue her training as sous chef. And now she’s risen to the top of the food chain, where she’s, well, blooming.



The warm-hearted chef is overjoyed with the new position she’s rightfully earned. “I’m getting to do whatever I want with the menu, which is very exciting,” she says. “I have complete creative license.” While Bloom will continue to adhere to the clean lines and palette of contemporary American fare Table 1280 is known for, she’s very interested in rotating items based on freshness, experimentation, whim and fancy. Thus, the menu is evolving daily, and it’s full of seasonal surprises.



ON THE MENU

Contemporary American cuisine at Table 1280 takes on an artistic flair. Bloom says they try to tie in exhibitions at the High Museum whenever possible. “For example, when Annie Leibovitz was here, who did the Got Milk? campaign, we offered a milk-and-cookies special dessert,” says Bloom. “When the Terracotta Warriors arrive this fall, we’ll have something Asian-inspired, perhaps dim Sundays, or some other play on words.”



Start with the pretty in pink snapper ceviche, which is cured in lemon and lime juices for a half hour, and then served with watermelon radish and nuoc cham. Try the very summery salad of shaved asparagus, fennel, pickled onion, arugula and toasted almonds for a crunchy appetizer. Pair your dishes with any one of the wine varietals offered; the list is extensive and well-edited. Consider springing for the 2004 Opus One, a full-bodied Napa Valley cabernet from Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild. On the night my fiancée and I dined, entrée highlights included an impeccably grilled cobia; a mild, meaty fish nicknamed the “lemon fish,” which is served with spinach, red onions and Meyer lemon. The black tagliatelle is intriguing: pasta dyed black with squid ink and accompanied by bright green fava beans and maitake mushrooms. The dish packs a salty bite with garden freshness. Award-winning pastry chef Chad Guay whips up tempting confections that merit skipping that last helping of pasta. One to try: the light-as-air angel food cake, served with raspberries, lemongrass sherbet and lavender cream.



TABLE SERVICE

Since Table 1280 was designed by Piano, a world-renowned Italian architect (in collaboration with Bergmeyer Associates), the geometrically striking décor mirrors that of the High—stark, contemporary, minimalist. Chrome pieces, black leather chairs and white walls fill the restaurant, an ideal combination of ergonomics and innovative design. But don’t dismiss this as a cold, pretentious spot. Bloom’s very friendly and can often be seen talking and laughing with the guests, creating a neighborhood bistro feel to this sleek restaurant. Knowledgeable servers are highly attentive with heart-warming smiles and proper Southern hospitality, a growing rarity in many of the upscale eateries in Atlanta.



WHEN TO GO

Every Thursday in May, live music entertains al fresco diners on the patio at Table 1280; the nights, the High Museum of Art keeps its doors open later ('til 8 p.m.). Because of assortment of entertainment offered just steps away from Table 1280, it’s packed on symphony and play nights, and the weekends. If you like more elbow room or more privacy, go earlier in the week. Celebrity-watching is addictively fun any night; Maya Angelou and the entire Jane Fonda clan both recently help private parties here. The lounge offers more of the tapas-style smaller bites and is ideal as an after-work hot spot or après-art viewing. The Sunday à la carte brunch, with the styles of pancakes changing weekly, is a pleasing way to start the day, especially with a dose of sunshine from Bloom. SP

Kirsten Ott is the Life, Food & Style Editor. E-mail her at kirstenott@sundaypaper.com.

 

Photos/Spark St. Jude

The artistic, minimalist design of Table 1280 reflects that of its neighbor, the High Museum of Art.

DINING ESSENTIALS

Table 1280

1280 Peachtree St. NE

Woodruff Arts Center

404-897-1280

www.table1280.com

HOURS: Lunch: Tue.–Sat. 11 a.m.–2 p.m.; Dinner: Tue.–Sat. 5–9 p.m.; Lounge: Tue.–Wed. 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Thu.–Sat. 11 a.m.–midnight, Sun. 3–6 p.m. Brunch: Sun. 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Restaurant is closed on Mondays.

RESERVATIONS: Accepted; www.opentable.com

DRESS CODE: Business casual

CUISINE: Contemporary American

ALCOHOL: Full bar

COST: Starters, soups, salads: $8–$12; entrées: $20–$30; sides: $6; desserts: $8

CREDIT CARDS: All major

OUTDOOR SEATING: Yes

PARKING: Complimentary self-parking in the Woodruff Arts Center parking deck for Table 1280 customers

SPECIAL DISCOUNTS: All members and subscribers of the High Museum, Alliance Theatre, the Atlanta Symphony Orchestra and the 14th Street Playhouse, receive a 10 percent discount at Table 1280. Proof of membership and ID required.