Sunday, May 17, 2009 | Food, Wine, Beer & Spirits, "Behind the Bar", Q&A
SP From the ground up

Herve Pennequin on the wine program at the St. Regis Atlanta Hotel & Residences

Spark St. Jude
Herve Pennequin

By Hope S. Philbrick

While he credits his bar-owner parents for introducing him to guest services and great food, Herve Pennequin claims it was a culinary school teacher who sparked his professional interest in wine. Among the accolades he’s racked up since then are Third Best Sommelier in the World (2004), Second Best Sommelier of the United States (2002), Second Best Sommelier in France (1994) and Best Young Sommelier in France (1989). As wine director at the brand new St. Regis Atlanta Hotel & Residences, Pennequin has had the opportunity to build a wine program from scratch. The Sunday Paper recently talked with him to learn more.

How do you start building a wine program?

They give me a budget, and I look at the price point of the menus. The concept for the signature restaurant is American Bistro, so I put a focus on American wines at price points that are related not only to the St. Regis address but also to the economy. I have 100 wines, mostly American, way below $50 a bottle. The list is pretty much American and European—with a strong French core. Generally, I want only the best of what can be found in a market whether that’s Spain, Italy, Chile, Argentina, or Australia. The idea is to have a region on the menu, have well-known brands as well as niche growers, things you’d find on a regular wine list plus some that are a little high-end. My motivation was to show Atlanta, and Buckhead in particular, that we are not a restaurant that is too expensive; we are very fairly priced. Moderately priced wines on the menu also allow for repeat guests; folks can afford to come throughout the week rather than just once a month.

Any special challenges with the St. Regis’ Atlanta wine program?

I’ve got a showcase display here, and so for every single wine, I was more cautious of having nice labels, because people can see the wines.

Are certain wines essential?

Every time I do a wine list, I try to have every type of wine. Then, within each type, I try to represent each region where it’s made well: like pinot noir from Oregon and France, and other regions. I believe every wine program should offer different aspects of a varietal by bringing in wines from different regions just to have representation—also education for staff. A small wine program can easily become a larger one if you consider varietals from different regions. For example, there’s shiraz from Australia and also Washington state; you can get malbec from Argentina and also from Chile.

What do you consider when pairing wine with food?

This American bistro concept basically provides food that has very simple, pure flavors—very tasty, but not too complicated to understand or taste. The chef is very talented not to exceed flavors or aromas and still it’s very tasty; the chicken tastes like a good, juicy chicken. Working with very pure wine varietals more easily matches with the pure food.

You open Champagne with a sword. Is that dangerous?

Every day at 6 p.m., I’ll be sabering a bottle of Champagne. We chose that time because it’s sunset somewhere at that time every day, and it’s when people start to go out. The bottle is made of two pieces: If you look, you can see a seam where they’re attached. A saber easily cuts off the top, through the glass. You have to have a perfect angle. I make sure everyone is a few feet away from the direction I’m sabering. And I’m doing it outside on the patio, which may also attract some people to come in.

Where does Atlanta rank in terms of wine sophistication?

Compared to New York City, it’s maybe one step back; not too far behind. What is interesting to notice is that many Atlantans have private cellars of a very large size. Now they want to learn more, and it’s a matter of sharing and opening more doors to wine from other countries. There are great restaurants with great wine programs in Atlanta. SP
The St. Regis Atlanta Hotel & Residences is located at 88 West Paces Ferry Road in Buckhead. For more information, call 404-563-7900 or visit www.stregis.com/atlanta.