Sunday, June 07, 2009 | Food, "Dish"
SP New & noteworthy

"Meat" Abattoir and another new fish in the pond, RA Sushi

Melissa Libby & Associates
Beef tataki roll, at RA Sushi

By Kirsten Ott

If you’re in the market for meat, Abattoir opened its doors two weeks ago. Abattoir (French for slaughterhouse) is located in part of the old meat packing plant on Howell Mill Road, and is the newest addition to Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison’s family of acclaimed restaurants, including Bacchanalia, Quinones, Floataway Café and Star Provisions. Fresh wildflowers and soft earth hues cast a feminine tone, an interesting contrast to the gentlemen’s club feeling at most chophouses. With a comfortable European elegance, the timeworn-decorated dining room seats 102 people. Al fresco dining also is available for 36 guests. The “meatcentric” concept utilizes locally raised proteins to produce high-quality, affordable food. Offering freshly butchered whole fowl, fish, beef, pork and other game served in a variety of ways, the menu is based around “whole animal cuisine,” a term referring to Quatrano’s use of every functional piece of the animal. In order to avoid wasting any part, Abattoir features dishes redolent of head cheese, innards, feet and tongue. Menu standouts include the starter of venison jerky and main courses of corned lamb kidney, lamb brain fritters with meuniere sauce, braised cocks comb and crispy chicken feet. More mainstream dishes are available, like the Gulf black grouper, slow-roasted pork with farm egg noodles and brood, and the signature burger with beef and pork, which is served with pommes frites. On the dessert menu, the maple bacon beignets and the crepe with sweet goat cheese and nuts are appealing. The cocktail menu is based on old-school libations: sazerac, sidecar, Pimm’s cup, bee’s knees and gin rickey. Abattoir is open for dinner Tue.-Sat. from 5 to 11 p.m. The restaurant is located in the White Provision district at 1170 Howell Mill Road. 404-892-3335. www.starprovisions.com.

IN THE RAW
Bringing sexy back in a whole new way is RA Sushi, the stylish and upbeat sushi bar and restaurant opening Monday, June 8, in the 1010 Midtown condominium building at Peachtree and 12th streets. The dining concept—a chain hailing from Scottsdale, Ariz.—promises a combination of fresh sushi, hip music and contemporary décor. Some rolls that have already caught my eye: tootsy maki, a crab mix, shrimp and cucumber wrapped in seaweed and encased in rice, drizzled with sweet eel sauce and topped with tempura bits; the beef tataki roll, featuring artichoke, asparagus, roasted red peppers and avocado rolled and topped with seared flat iron steak and chili soy sauce, served with a creamy wasabi sauce; and the Viva Las Vegas roll, which features kani kama and cream cheese rolled in rice and seaweed, lightly tempura battered and topped with spicy tuna, crab mix and sliced lotus root, finished with sweet eel sauce and spinach tempura flakes. Executive Chef and restaurant co-founder Tai Obata also offers Japanese fusion dishes such as apple teriyaki salmon.
With 7,800 square feet, RA Sushi is a spacious spot featuring indoor and outdoor dining, draped in rich materials and an interesting interpretation of Japanese architecture. Sake barrels hang from above, and a 20-foot pagoda makes a statement at the main bar. RA Sushi is open every day from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., with a late-night menu available until midnight. The bar stays open until 1 a.m. Monday through Saturday and midnight on Sunday. On a budget? The best time to try it out is from 3 to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and on Sundays, from 8 to 11 p.m., when the restaurant offers half-priced sushi and appetizers. 1080 Peachtree St. 404-267-0114.
www.rasushi.com. SP
Kirsten Ott is the Life, Food and Style Editor at The Sunday Paper. Got an idea for Dish? Send it to kirstenott@sundaypaper.com.