Sunday, June 07, 2009 | Food, Recipes
SP Drops of juniper

Short ribs with basil pesto mashed potatoes at Pacci Ristorante

Courtesy of Pacci Ristorante

By Keira Moritz

Sometimes I enjoy adding an obscure ingredient into a traditional recipe. It’s fun for me to do something a little differently, and my guests appreciate the surprise. Juniper berries are the perfect extra flavor to change a dish from good to great.

A juniper berry is the female seed cone of the juniper tree. It’s not really a berry, but just looks like one. Cooks use the berries as a spice to give a dish a nice piney, clean taste. You see it used a lot in northern European cuisine, and it’s actually what gives gin its flavor.

These berries are blue-black and grow in Europe and America. They are really bitter if you bite into a raw one, so you usually see them sold dried. I use juniper berries in other recipes for meats and sauces, but not seafood dishes. When you use the berries in cooking, be sure to crush them to release the flavor.

After you’ve gotten your juniper berries, it’s time to start cooking! This short ribs recipe is one of my favorite dishes. I think this is because it’s a true comfort food and reminds me of growing up in Valdosta, Ga. I left home and made my way across the country, spending time in Denver and ending up in San Francisco, but I always thought of family in Georgia when I would prepare this dish. Adding in the juniper berries really spikes the flavor and makes it unique.

I love to braise foods. This form of slow cooking really brings the flavor out and defines the phrase “fall off the bone.” It’s also a form of therapy for me. Taking a somewhat tough cut of meat and turning it into a melt-in-your-mouth masterpiece can really make you feel good. All you do is cook the ribs at a low heat for a long period of time, and your guests will be raving. And they won’t even use their knives!

In this dish I combine my favorite things: braising a traditional comfort food and adding in an obscure ingredient. It’s not hard to recreate and will really wow your dinner guests. All it takes is a little planning, since you’ll want to give those short ribs time to get nice and tender.

Be sure to make a trip to your local farmers market for the vegetables and herbs, as this will make a big difference in the taste, too. Plus, you’ll be supporting farmers, a cause I’m passionate about. You might even find a few more ingredients at the market to round out your meal.

I’ve added in a recipe for basil pesto mashed potatoes because I think it’s the perfect side dish to go with the ribs. Of course, I think mashed potatoes go great with everything, but that’s just me. Just make sure you really cook the potatoes until they are done to achieve the creamy texture that makes them irresistible.

This short ribs recipe has followed me through my career and seems to always wind up as a staple on my menus. The staff loves it, the customers love it, and the cooks always have such respect for it. It’s an honest dish. When it’s prepared with love, it never lets you down. SP
Keira Moritz is the executive chef at Pacci Ristorante. 866 West Peachtree St. NW. 678-412-2402. www.paccirestaurant.com.

 

SHORT RIBS WITH BASIL PESTO MASHED POTATOES


RIBS


Ingredients:


Instructions:

In a hot sauté pan, brown short ribs on all sides in oil and set aside. Second, sauté vegetables until tender. Next, deglaze with wine and reduce by ¼. Then, add stock, juniper berries, bay leaves, rosemary, thyme, salt, pepper and ribs. Cover and braise for 3.5 hours at 225 degrees F. Finally, separate the ribs from the sauce and skim the fat from the sauce. Reduce on low heat until thick.

MASHED POTATOES

Ingredients:


Instructions:

Cook the potatoes in a stock pot full of water until they are done (a good way to test doneness is stab the potato with a fork and if it falls off, it is done). Melt the half and half with the butter. Mash the potatoes with the melted half and half and butter, and season with the salt and pepper.

BASIL PESTO

Ingredients:


Instructions:

Place all ingredients in a food processor; pulse a few times until fairly smooth, or to the desired consistency, scraping down the sides occasionally.

Combine the potatoes with the pesto, and top with ribs. Cover with sauce and serve.