Sunday, January 27, 2008
Life, Travel

A living history

Brush up on your knowledge of 18th-century America in Colonial Williamsburg

By Katie K. Bell

My three-year-old girl beams with joy as we clip-clop in our open-air carriage down the cobbled streets of Colonial Williamsburg. She has been asking to take a carriage ride since the day we arrived, and I am grateful that my husband had the sense to be first in line (at 8:45 a.m.) to purchase tickets. By 10 a.m., the rides were sold-out for the day. Our driver shares interesting tidbits about the town, while we wave at the various colonists: tradesmen, gentleman and women who wander the streets in colonial garb. This is, after all, a living history museum dedicated to accurately portraying the life of the vibrant and exciting 18th century in America

Williamsburg is one of America’s first communities (long before the gated golf concept) there was the planned community of Williamsburg, Virginia. From 1699 to 1780, it was the capital of England’s most prosperous colony. The 300-acre community is comprised of various museums with more than 88 original buildings, including the gaol (jail), courthouse, 55 period rooms and the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art collection. In addition, tradesmen (in full costume) work at jobs, recreating the era of revolutionary America in 1776.

The blacksmith works only by daylight, hammering nails for part of a building reconstruction. The printer sets type for the next “Gazette,” and the brick maker pours clay mush into brick molds. All the while, visitors gawk and ask questions, touch and feel the tools and nod in grave appreciation of the hard work it took to live in colonial America.

While waiting your turn to observe the silversmith, you might bump into a street debate about government and politics. Costumed performers re-enact scenes (such as deciding who should be tarred and feathered for taking the British side), often engaging the crowd in the discussion. This is intense hands-on learning. It is also our first foray into the interactive experience that defines Colonial Williamsburg. But we soon discover that there are lessons to keeping mind before you arrive. Lesson No. 1: Reservations are critical.

RESERVE, RESERVE, RESERVE

The best dining, the most interesting attractions, tours and hands-on activities are limited in scale. Activities such as Bits and Bridles (hands on fun with animals), ghost tours, the Capitol Ball (dancing and music) or a mock witch trial, sell out quickly, so make tracks for the ticket counter upon arrival. Better yet, call ahead and reserve your space weeks in advance.

Grab a full schedule of events at the visitor’s center, and take note of the hours of various buildings. Or you’ll miss out. The Wythe House, for example, is only open until 1 p.m. The 15 or 30 minute carriage rides are marvelous (you can select from six different carriages), but sell out quickly, so get cracking early in the morning. However, if you do procrastinate and miss out, do not despair. The sheer volume of information, abundance of museums and street theater will be more than enough to keep you busy.  

STAY LOCALLY

Colonial Williamsburg Foundation offers commuter bus rides, but the ideal arrangement it to be a mere block or two away from the main drag. Traveling with the whole family inevitably means that someone forgets something, needs a nap or just wants to go back and swim while the others tour. The village may seem small and quaint, but it covers 301 acres and the town is a mile long and half-mile wide. Being a mere block or two away makes for smooth changes in planning activities and a lot less walking.

Not only is the local lodging convenient, the hotels are simply lovely. Our room at the Williamsburg Lodge (renovated in early 2007) is decorated with period furnishing. Colonial folk prints, bed quilts and pottery pair nicely with the luxurious bathroom and free Wi-Fi access. The hardwood floors in our rooms are a nice touch, but ask for a top-floor room, as I am sure they can be squeaky to those below. Those on a tighter budget will enjoy the Woodlands Hotel with simple guest suites and free breakfast each morning. The Williamsburg Inn is a member of the Leading Small Hotels of the Worlds and a standard bearer in luxurious accommodations … perfect for the romantic winter escape.

EAT HERE

Back to that lesson on reservations, make them or you’ll be trying vainly to keep your tired, crabby troops from grazing the salad bar while you all wait 20 to 30 minutes for a table. If you spend the entire day in the village, you must elbow your way into the small number of restaurants for meals … because everyone else is in the same boat. We, however, just strolled up the street and straight into our Lodge dining room. Indeed, our best meals were at the Williamsburg Lodge, which is not on everyone’s radar, hence the waits are minimal. Quality ingredients, great wines and very reasonable prices made this an easy choice for our family. If you prefer a more colonial experience, eat lunch at Shields Tavern and dinner at Christina Campbell’s. But call days ahead—or even weeks in advance; preparation is the soul of a good visit here. SP