Sunday, May 04, 2008
Food, Reviews

Bull’s eye

Ricardo Ullio delivers another successful restaurant with Cuerno

CREDIT:Photos/Spark St. Jude
Cuerno is awash in rich textures and royal colors.

DINING ESSENTIALS

Cuerno
905 Juniper St.
678-904-4584
Hours: Sun.–Thu., 5:30 p.m.–midnight; Fri.–Sat., 5:30 p.m.–1 a.m.
Reservations: Yes, but for six or more only on Friday and Saturday
Dress Code: Urban hip
Cuisine: Spanish
Cost: $5–7, tapas; $8–$16, appetizers, $24–$36, entrée; $18 per person paella; $7, dessert
Credit Cards: All major
Outdoor Seating: No
Parking: Garage

Katie Kelly Bell

Ricardo Ullio is bullish on Atlanta’s dining scene. His recent spate of openings make him look a bit like a restaurant mogul. At present, he is now operating four different dining experiences in Atlanta. Fans of Sotto Sotto’s gorgeous Italian cuisine and Fritti’s perfectly inspired pizzas have been gushing over his creativity for years. The recently opened Beleza (it means “beautiful” in Portuguese) gets raves for its sexy fresh fruit cocktails, premium nibbles (some call it spa food the ingredients are so pure) and chic urban scene. And now we have his latest endeavor: Cuerno, which (for those of you who took French in high school), means horn in Spanish.

The first thing you’ll see when you enter this new Midtown destination (aside from a smiling hostess), is a pair of menacing, powerful horns aimed your way. Attached to those horns is the bull. Crafted from metal salvage parts, this magnificent life-sized sculpture dominates the space … and serves as a reminder that you are indeed Spanish for tonight.

Subtle lighting and fabulous textures round out the look with walls of unfinished concrete and polished slate and glass tiles behind the bar. A starlit Madonna painted on the back wall softens the bull’s power adding a nice balance to the room. More than half of the seating is elevated to bar stool height, so make sure your socks match before you head out. Crafted from a single piece of walnut, the large communal table in the center of the room is a work of art, as well. Three crystal chandeliers are scattered about the dining room and antique European tiles (from the 1840s) surround the open kitchen. Indeed, the surroundings are a good indication of the cuisine: bold, colorful and richly varied.

Any discussion of the menu at Cuerno should begin with the paella. Chef Ken Bouche explains, “We do traditional Spanish-style paella where the top and bottom of the dish have a nice golden crust on them.” Bouche prepares six different examples. The valenciana with shrimp, mussels, clam, cuttlefish, chicken and rabbit is easily the most popular on the menu. However, the prawn and forest mushroom paella with vermicelli rather than rice is equally popular. Thyme, marcona almonds, squash and forest mushrooms make up the vegetarian version. Paella for two may be more than your gathering wants to eat, so settle into the tapas menu. Comprised of tasty, simple bites such as mixed olives, marcona almonds, and stewed bell pepper. The menu also recently began offering the delicious jamon iberico (black footed ham). Made from hogs fattened on acorns and aged to perfection, this has long been unavailable in America. Ullio is one of Atlanta’s first restaurateurs to gain access to such cured treasure.

The Spanish-only wine list requires your full attention. Cuerno is staffed with a wise and helpful sommelier Harry Constantinescu, who gladly offers tastings to guide you toward a wine that works with your food. Be sure to ask about the “Unico” produced by Vegas Sicilia. This wine is normally reserved exclusively for the King of Spain’s table. The wily and well-connected Constantinescu managed to procure a hefty allotment for his wine list. He refers to this silky, lush tempranillo blend as Spain’s Screaming Eagle (after the famed cult wine from California).

Paella and tapas aside, the rest of the menu is a well-rounded tour of all things Spain. Consider the plancha selection: clams, prawns, lobster tail, scallops or the onion soup with tomato raisin chutney. The cod with honey, rosemary oil and tomato chorizo emulsion works for seafood lovers, Carnivores will swoon over the braised veal cheek or lamb rack. And because we are in Spain, there is a sucking pig—more specifically, a confit sucking pig, roasted apple, pistachio and anise juice.

With his bold ingredients and a wine list loyal only to Spain, no one can complain of Cuerno as offering a dumbed-down American version of a Spanish dining experience. Ullio clearly has faith in Atlanta’s adventuresome palate, so take the bull by the horns and visit Cuerno’s Spain tonight. SP