Sunday, May 25, 2008
Food

Changing of the guard

SP chats with Joël’s new executive chef Cyrille Holota

By Hope S. Philbrick

    When we got word that changes were being made at Atlanta’s five-star restaurant Joël, we knew fans of the dining destination would likely get nervous. But fear not. Our exclusive behind-the-scenes chat with the new executive chef—Cyrille Holota, who has worked with Chef Joël Antunes for many years—confirms that key elements of the restaurant will remain the same.

Q What’s your background?
A I went to a very small culinary school in France, Brassac les Mines. After that I worked at one Michelin star Restaurant Le Clavé. Then I went to London to work with Chef Joël at one Michelin star rated Les Saveurs for 18 months. Then I moved to Paris and worked at three-star Michelin L’Arpege. After I’d been there about three years, one day Joël called me and asked, “Do you want to come to America?” The first time he asked me, I told him no. Then two or three years later he called again, and I said yes. So, 10 years ago I came to Atlanta and worked at the Dining Room Ritz-Carlton Buckhead for three years. Then Joël moved to open his restaurant, and I followed him. First, I was sous chef, then chef de cuisine and now executive chef.

    I’ve been working for 14 years with Joël. Right now, the difference is that I’m in charge of everything and people come to me to ask me questions more. There is more pressure now.

    I’m very busy, and, of course, talking to Chef Joël, but most of all, I’m focusing on the restaurant, staff and customers. The No. 1 thing is to make people happy so they come back and see us.

Of all the restaurants where you could work, why Joël? What makes it special?
Well, I have known and worked with Joël for so many years. At a lot of restaurants menus don’t change much; it’s pretty much the same thing every day. Here it’s a great opportunity to see lots of different recipes because Joël changes the menu every single day—the whole menu, from amuse bouche to dessert. I always see a new technique, something new and different. It makes the work so interesting.

    Right now I can’t change all the produce every single day—the carrot, the potato may be on the menu more than one day. I do change the special daily and other dishes at least once a week, but [with] the produce we have to be careful because of food costs.

    We feature seasonal foods. Right now I have morel mushrooms on potatoes, some beautiful fava beans, I’m going to fry some zucchini flowers. I’m looking for the produce of the season, something exceptional and beautiful. I also have a roasted quail on the menu. It’s marinated in soy sauce, ginger and rice vinegar and served with a very tiny, delicate rice from Laos that I serve with chervil and chive and also to give the dish some nice flavor I add little golden raisins.

How much change will you make?
Well, I worked here 14 years so I’m not going to change everything. I was very much influenced by Joël—people didn’t realize when Joël was cooking and when I was cooking. People don’t see a difference when the quality is there. Right now the main thing I’m trying to do is create an atmosphere that will get people into the restaurant. I’m going out of the kitchen to meet people, talk to them, see what they want. I want to try to understand my customers and at the same time let them see who I am. All this time I’ve been hiding behind the stove running the kitchen and now I have to be in front. I want to show people that I have a big heart and want them to come to see me and talk about food. The art of the table is to have some wine and food, share ideas and have a good time. When people have a big smile, I know my job is done. SP
Joël restaurant is located at 3290 Northside Parkway. 404-233-3500. www.joelrestaurant.com.