Sunday, July 27, 2008
Food, Reviews

Zaya—Inman Park’s Mediterranean Treasure

 

By Katie Kelly Bell


Inman Park is busy, busy, busy. New restaurants and concepts are popping up all along the once dark, deserted slice of Highland Avenue south of the Carter Center and just before the old Fourth Ward. Zaya Bistro and Bar is one of the newest dining concepts to join in the fun. Billed as a Mediterranean restaurant the menu here pulls from all sides of the sea, with influences from France, Italy, Morocco and Greece. Owned by New Orleans based restaurateurs Hicham Khodr, Gabriel Saliba and Tarek Tay, Zaya is their first venture outside of Louisiana. Tarek, explains, “We decided on Atlanta because we liked the city and the diners here are a good fit for us.” The trio (Three of a Kind Restaurant Group) currently operate nine Mediterranean establishments in New Orleans.

Tucked into a corner edge of the new North Highland Steel development, (which means valet parking, a nice perk in the space-deprived Inman park area), Zaya has been open since February. The dining room is a long willowy space with one side comprised of a street side windows and the other a combination of an open kitchen and groovy textured walls (akin to wind blown curves in the sand). Bright red lampshades hang from on high to add splashes of bold color to the dark wood tables and floors. A lofty unfinished ceiling is painted black and thick candles flicker on tables. The bar end of the dining room can get a bit louder than the rest of the experience and the outdoor patio is a nice nook to enjoy a more private meal.

I spy parents with kids, singles at the bar and couples on dates. Looking to “create a great neighborhood restaurant with wide appeal to the local crowd,” Tarek is pleased with the reception so far. Indeed, judging from the buzz on the night we dined, things are going nicely.

Deciding how to best take advantage of the menu may be a challenge. Tarek notes that more than three-fourths of the menu items are authentic Lebanese dishes, adding “many derived from our own family recipes.” The kebabs, which are made from lamb, chicken, beef or shrimp, are laced with a spice mixture and grilled each is served with a selection of sides. The lamb kebabs use lamb loin for a richer more tender bite, but with their aromatic spices and perfectly grilled texture, the shrimp are my personal favorite. Another crowd-pleasing Lebanese preparation is the shawarma. Chicken or beef are marinated overnight in olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and a tantalizing mixture of Lebanese spices then wrapped in a warm pita or served straight up.

According to Tarek, the remaining parts of the menu are designed “to please a wide variety of people. We pull from other areas. Of course we try not to be too many things. Atlanta is a knowledgeable city, when they come to eat Mediterranean they come to eat Mediterranean.” Indeed, expect to struggle with the choices. You might start with one of the nine salads, fattoush being my favorite: garden veggies tossed with crispy pita bread in a special house made dressing. Next order a round of appetizers to experiment with the tantalizing flavors and textures on this expansive menu. Drunken halloumi (flaming cheese, very cool) is a tangy Greek cheese soaked in ouzo and set aflame. Soujouk features Armenian chorizo with chopped tomatoes and parsley. Stuffed kibbeh is gently fried combination of lamb, cracked wheat, beef, pine nuts and spices. Others include: spanakopita, stuffed sambousek, fried calamari, falafel and hummus.

Tarek recommends everyone try the decadent rack of lamb, and I agree. However, the one dish that cannot be overlooked is sweet: Ashta. Tarek and his partners use a traditional base for this Lebanese dessert: eggless custard. So far, things sound fairly bland until we hear about his inspired twist: Everything is wrapped in a gorgeous phyllo purse, drizzled with perfumed syrup of rosewater and orange blossom, and topped with a sprinkle of pistachios. If you still seek something to love on this menu, the Thursday night belly dancer, Friday and Saturday night hookahs or nightly $2 Ketel One martinis (through August) will likely make any neighbor happy to have Zaya in town. SP