Sunday, August 31, 2008
Food, In this Issue..., Reviews

Parish

A New Orleans neighborhood in the ATL

By Katie Kelly Bell


One of the best things about Parish is that feeling you get once inside the door—the feeling that you might actually be in New Orleans. Everyone’s enjoying themselves, the room is buzzing, Louisiana beers are on tap, and the exposed brick walls, arched doorways and convivial atmosphere call to mind the French Quarter. But I think it’s the life-size 100-year-old plaster mold cast (boasting a nicely placed lipstick smudge on a certain buttock) of two naked people in the center of the dining room that tilts the scene toward the Big Easy. Did someone recently kiss the exposed cheek of the statue? Did famed bronze sculptor M. Desonace (who fashioned the mold) put it there himself? In New Orleans, these kinds of things happen and no one seems bothered. Everyone’s too busy having a good time.

That certainly seems to be the case at Parish. It’s no surprise that it's brought to us by none other than Bob Amick, the original creator of Mick’s restaurant and the Peasant Group. He’s currently responsible for One Midtown Kitchen, Two Urban Licks, Trois and TAP (not to mention the several other dining establishments he manages under the Concentrics Hospitality name). He’s a smart, busy guy who knows how to get folks excited about dining, and Parish is no exception.

Located in the newly revitalized swath of Inman Park just south of Sotto Sotto, the restaurant is situated in the lovingly restored Atlanta Pipe and Foundry Company terminal building (circa 1890). Parish is divided into three parts: a small shop and to-go market are below, with the dining room upstairs. The historic interior is fleshed out with fancy restored crown moldings, a Vermont slate roof and a walnut and zinc bar.

But what really matters is the food. Let’s start with the ciabatta bread—mother, that’s some good stuff. Served in cute little brown bags, each piping hot loaf is buttery and aromatic. If you have time, you’ll want to grab some at the to-go market below the restaurant (which is such genius). Why doesn’t everyone do that? If you're curing your meats in house (as Parish does), baking your breads and crafting your pasties (ditto), then why not let us have a mini-shop so we take some home?

To-go or not, there are some dishes you’ll want to eat under the very cool original tin ceiling. Executive Chef Timothy Magee has worked in some of New Orleans’ finest kitchens, including Commander’s Palace and Mr. B’s Bistro. His most recent stint was with the highly respected Nick Oltarsh of Room and Lobby at the respective Twelve hotels. Here at Parish, Magee is flexing his Cajun muscles and turning out dishes that keep ’em coming back for more. However, he is careful to note that the fare here is not purely Creole or Cajun, but rather is reflective of the French and Spanish influences that comprise New Orleans cuisine.

Consider the chicken and andouille sausage gumbo, the crawfish and chicken sausage cheesecake (weird but very good) and the jumbo barbecue shrimp. The gumbo is a fine rendition of a classic, the cheesecake reminds me of a quiche with a meat crust, and the shrimp are served with their heads and a glossy, dark sauce.

You might be tempted to order the house-cured charcuterie, but save that for the to-go market and get the divinely flaky broiled redfish with a nice dust of blackened seasoning, or the amazing catfish with andouille crust and a drizzle of ranch dressing (meow!).

For more casual fare, you can always get the oyster loaf BLT (fried oysters, bacon, lettuce and tomato) or a po’ boy. Cap off a truly Cajun evening with an Abita root beer float with sassafras ice cream and root beer sorbet, but then you’d have to walk away from the espresso macchiato soufflé with graham cracker crust and chicory ice cream, or the milk chocolate silk pie with Oreo crust.

It’s also important to note that after 7 p.m., all pastries in the market are 50 percent off: chocolate croissants, cookies, brownie pies, you get the idea. If you want music with your meal, check out the live jazz during the Saturday and Sunday brunch service. Just come and do your thing—no one minds (certainly not the nude couple in the middle of the room). SP