Sunday, September 07, 2008
Food, Recipes

Pinch me

Lobster gnocchi at Lobby at Twelve

Spark St. Jude

By Gregory Vivier

Succulent meat always inspires me to create delicious meals, but I think quality lobster inspires just about everyone with taste buds. That’s probably why I can’t resist lobster gnocchi, a dish whose title ingredient is incredibly popular and more accessible during summer months.

The lobster in this dish is accompanied by some other great picks, including asparagus and peas. All of these ingredients serve as the creative foundation of this gnocchi dish: simple, recognizable ingredients that everyone already knows and loves even before mixing them together.

Of course, after you mix them together, these everyday ingredients combine to create an undeniably appealing, light and tasty meal that seafood lovers find irresistible. Transport the guests at your next summer soiree across the Atlantic to Italy, where gnocchi originated as an alternative to pasta for a first course. With its seafood focus, this recipe offers a unique take on one of Italy’s best classic primi piatti. 

At Lobby, we usually offer lobster gnocchi as a first course to open the meal, but I believe that, especially with a large enough portion, you could easily turn this dish into an exciting entrée.

To get the optimum impact out of this impressive dish, go for lobster fresh out of the tank. As any professional foodie will attest, fresh is always better than frozen. A culinary degree is not a necessity when picking a lobster, but do keep in mind a few easy tips while scanning the tank. Even though lobsters do not sport that characteristic lobster red color until you cook them, you should still look for the lobsters with the brightest brick-red color. Be sure to choose the lobsters that are more active, and always avoid lobsters with injuries or broken body parts, as they might be unsafe for consumption.

Although they are not as flashy as lobster, asparagus and peas are just as crucial to the overall success of this gnocchi, so spend just as much time and energy in the produce aisle as in front of the seafood case. Select firm asparagus that does not have a strong odor.

The fresher all of the ingredients are, the better, and thus the importance of making the lobster stock from scratch. For this aspect of the recipe, as for the gnocchi itself, incorporate very fresh ingredients. Choose plump, round fennel bulbs and ripe, red tomatoes.

This fresh and tasty dish incorporates so many of the summer’s signature flavors. Lobster, like many varieties of seafood, reminds me of summer vacations at the beach. Unlike some other options for preparing lobster, though, this recipe produces a light dish. The lobster gnocchi is not too difficult to prepare and is ready to serve relatively quickly. These characteristics and quality ingredients make the gnocchi a perfect choice for those afternoon or evening get-togethers on the veranda. Follow the steps listed above to prepare what could be the most sophisticated meal many of your guests will have at a picnic this summer. SP
Gregory Vivier is the chef de cuisine at Lobby at Twelve. 361 17th St. Atlanta. 404-961-7370. www.lobbyattwelve.com.

LOBSTER GNOCCHI

Ingredients

• Gnocchi, lobster, crayfish, asparagus
• Gnocchi
• Lobster, blanched and diced
• Crayfish
• Asparagus, blanched
• Peas
• Lobster stock
• Butter
• Fines herbs

Gnocchi, pate a choux ingredients:

• 1/2 quart water
• ¾ cup butter
• 1/2 quart flour
• 8 eggs
• 1.5 cups grated parmesan
• Fine herbs (parsley, chives, tarragon)
• 1/2 potato, baked and milled

Instructions:

Heat the water and the butter in a large heavy bottomed pot. Stir in the flour with a wooden spoon. Stir until it forms a smooth ball. Allow to cool slightly. Add the grated parmesan. Paddle in the eggs one at a time over medium speed. Add salt and pepper and herbs. Pipe into simmering salted water. Cook for 4-5 minutes. Shock. Serve warmed in brown butter.

Lobster Stock Ingredients:

• 4 lobster bodies
• ½ cup butter
• 1 quart mirepoix
• 2 fennel
• 4 fresh tomatoes
• 1 teaspoon tomato paste
• 2 cups brandy
• Chicken stock to cover
• Parsley
• Tarragon
• Thyme
• 1 stalk lemongrass

Instructions:

Sweat mirepoix. Add butter and lobster bodies and sauté. Add brandy and reduce. Add remaining ingredients. Cook for 1.5 hours.