Sunday, October 26, 2008
Food, Wine, Beer & Spirits, Reviews

Her name is Lola

A showy bellini bar and restaurant is all about the girl, but boys are welcome, too

By Katie Kelly Bell

If you only have time to read the first paragraph of this feature (for whatever reason: hot date, dinner’s burning), then you must remember this about Lola Bellini Bar & Restaurant: Order the gnocchi. Really. If you can only try one new restaurant this pay period (for whatever reason: the economy, new shoes come first), make time to get to Lola, and order this dish. Preparation begins with fresh semolina, potato and sweet peas (this ingredient varies depending on the season); it’s then finished in the pan, and finally topped with crispy spek ham and a lush truffle butter sauce.

For those readers who plan to stick around for the rest of this column, let’s talk about everything else going on at Lola. The particulars first: This restaurant comes from Tom Catherall, the mastermind behind Twist, Shout, Strip, Home, Prime, Noche and Goldfish. His latest concept appeals to the usual throng of sexy twenty- and thirtysomethings in the bar area, around the fire pit and on the patio. Indeed, the man knows how to draw a crowd and keep people happy. Catherall says he decided on an Italian menu “because, well, I didn’t have one yet, and it was time.”

Not one to do things lightly, Catherall toured Italy with his family to soak up design and cuisine ideas. “The wooden ceiling comes from a place in Italy, and the bar is modeled from a tapas bar in Spain,” he explains. And what a bar it is. Long and serpentine, it offers an appetizing view of the dazzling antipasto selections artfully arranged under glass at eye level.

The main dining room is framed by large booths (they seat six comfortably) and smaller tables in the center. Wooden slats cover the windows, allowing some light in but giving the effect of a Japanese tea room. There are two patios and some very plush outdoor seating along the Piedmont Road side of the restaurant.

Lola’s menu offers as many dining options as it does seating. Divided into antipasto, appetizers, salads, pizza, pasta, fish, steak and Lolitas, each section requires careful consideration. FYI, the Lolitas are Catherall’s healthy, balanced version of Italian food. These smaller meals are capped at 600 calories. He makes a point of noting that he also offers healthy alternatives such as whole wheat crust pizzas. “Most of my clientele are young females who watch what they eat. When the girls come, the guys come, too, so we made sure to offer a nice balance of dishes.” 

But why would you squander calories on a Lolita dish of salmon when you can dip into the light, flaky whole-grilled dourade (a velvety whitefish, served whole with arugula and tomato vinaigrette)? Better yet, try the lemon sole with olives, tomatoes and white wine, and as long as we’re at it, just go whole hog and order the 12-ounce strip steak with a balsamic onion confit. Really.
 
If you aren’t watching your waist, expect to budget time for navigating the menu. We struggled with our selections, finally resting on the gnocchi (we’ve discussed this already), grilled house-made lamb sausage with onions, pepper and polenta, and an antipasto selection of caramelized fennel, chick pea salad, marinated Tuscan white beans, a few cheeses and some salumi.

After ordering, our server returned with a mini glass of prosecco (like the bread service, it’s complimentary) just to get the party started. It’s a nice festive touch and one I’ve not seen anywhere else in Atlanta. Although the wine list offers a nicely rounded selection with emphasis on Italian varietals, it’s Lola’s classic bellini that keeps the crowds coming back. Made with white peach puree and prosecco, this is Atlanta’s drink, one about which Catherall notes, “You can pay $28 for at Harry’s Bar in Venice, or just $8 here in Atlanta.”

For the finale, desserts are wheeled around on a massive cart. Most of the selections were a yawn, but the assorted cheeses and honeycomb are divine, as are the house-made gelatos. Oh, and one more thing: The restroom is co-ed (at least the hand-washing part), so don’t wander back there expecting to primp and gossip about that cutie in the bar. I saved these useful tidbits for last—see? It does pay to read to the end. SP