Sunday, November 16, 2008
Food, Recipes
Salmon for the season
A fall harvest dish
Photos/Craig Brimanson for TRG
By Adam Newton
Picking the perfect fish builds the base for seared Coho salmon with autumn squash risotto and pistachio brown butter. Whether I’m cooking at home or at the restaurant, it’s vital that the fish used be the freshest available. The easiest way to get the best fish is to know who you’re buying from. I tell everyone they must know and trust their fishmonger, and then they can feel confident in when, where and how the fish was caught. This emphasis on freshness and quality is what makes the dishes we serve at the Oceanaire so special. Shoppers should be able to tell if a fish is fresh simply by appearance. The gills should be red, the eyes need to be clear and there should be no smell, or only the smell of fresh ocean or sea. Remember, fresh fish has a very short shelf life, so it isn’t something you can purchase more than one day ahead of time. But again, Step 1: Know and trust your fishmonger!
Risotto is a labor of love for any cook, and in my case, it’s a labor I truly enjoy. Although I’m from New England and without a drop of Italian heritage, I believe my stock-and-stir technique really creates the most creamy and luscious risotto. I add the stock in smaller quantities (two to three times) and stir quite aggressively each time until the stock is fully incorporated into the rice, which creates the creaminess that people find unique about risotto. This process of taking an ingredient as simple as rice and turning it into a wonderful experience for the diner is a magical process. I encourage everyone to learn how to make a risotto because it is truly a one-of-a-kind dish. SP
Adam Newton is the executive chef at the Oceanaire. 1100 Peachtree St. 404-475-2277. www.theoceanaire.com.
Seared Coho salmon with autumn squash risotto and pistachio brown butter
Serves 4
Instructions:
- 4 fresh 10-ounce salmon filets
- 1/3 cup cooking oil (canola and olive oil blend)
- 4 1/2 cups or one box Arborio rice, superfino
- 1 cup olive oil
- 1 1/2 cups unsalted butter, diced large cubes
- 4 fresh butternut squash, peeled, medium diced cubes, blanched
- 1 acorn squash
- 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1/3 cup green unsalted pistachios, lightly toasted with salt
- 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and small diced
- 5 to 8 garlic cloves, peeled, minced
- 8 to 12 cups chicken stock, lightly seasoned with salt and pepper, heated to a simmer
- 1 cup white wine
- 4 to 6 sprigs fresh thyme
- 1 fresh dried bay leaf
- 1 bunch parsley, cleaned and minced, for a garnish in the brown butter
- 1 ½ cups Parmesan cheese, grated
- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions:
Autumn Squash Risotto:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Half and seed your acorn squash, season with butter, salt, pepper and brown sugar. Place acorn squash flesh side up on a sheet pan, and roast for 1 hour or until tender. Next, scrape out the insides and save (this can be done ahead of time).
Risotto:
In a large hot rondo style pot place olive oil and 1/3 the butter (1/2 cup), then add 2/3 of the onions and 2/3 of the garlic, sweat until clear. Fold in rice, and toast slightly. Deglaze pot with white wine, and add thyme and bay leaf. Once the wine is almost evaporated, start adding about half the stock or until it just covers the rice, swirling/stirring the rice and stock together aggressively until it becomes quite thick and creamy in appearance. For best results, I recommend using a medium wooden spoon. Add in 1/3 more of the stock, and repeat. Once thick and creamy again, taste the rice for a soft outside and slightly firm inside, a little under al dente. If it still seems a little raw, then begin another round of stock and stirring. Once at this point, you can choose to store the rice on sheet pan(s) for cooling as a neutral risotto base and flavor it later as you wish. Turn off the burner on the rondo. Heat another large sauce pot to medium high heat. Now add 1/3 more of the butter, a little olive oil, the rest of the onions and garlic and sweat. Next, add the diced butternut squash, and let cook for a few minutes. Add half the rice from the big batch, and add about 1 ½ to 2 cups more stock, again stirring until the rice is cooked to a nice al dente. You may need to add a little stock at a time until a properly cooked texture is there. Finish with butter, about 2 tablespoons of acorn squash puree, a handful of Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper. Hold on the stove top (no heat under burner) until ready to serve with seared salmon. Don’t be worried if your risotto starts to look dried out; just reconstitute it with a little stock and stir.
Salmon:
Season the salmon with salt and pepper, and heat a sauté pan. Add a very light and thin coating of cooking oil, and wait until you see a slight smoking. Add your salmon flesh side down to the hot pan, and sear on one side until deep golden brown (about 1 to 2 minutes). Flip and repeat, or you may place the salmon in a hot 400 degree F. oven to cook through if your filets are thick. This allows for two different textures on the fish: a crispy caramelized side and a soft moist bottom side, which is wonderfully delicious. Once done to the temperature of your liking, remove salmon from the pan and place on a clean kitchen towel or paper towel for blotting (save the pan).
Pistachio Brown Butter:
With the leftover salmon pan, add a few large cubes of whole unsalted butter. Let the butter cook until the milk solids caramelize (this is brown butter). Next, add the toasted pistachios and chopped parsley. Remove from the heat, and spoon over the salmon and risotto.
To Serve:
Check on your risotto texture, and then place a few large tablespoons on a warm plate or bowl. Place one salmon filet on top of that, and add a spoonful of pistachio brown butter. Repeat for desired servings.