Sunday, September 13, 2009
Food, In this Issue..., Wine, Beer & Spirits

WWJD? (What Would Julia Drink?)

Mastering the art of French pairings

2009 Columbia Pictures Industries, Inc.
Meryl Streep as "Julia Child" in Columbia Pictures' “Julie & Julia”

By Katie Kelly Bell

Julia Child is the food star of the moment. The recent release of the film “Julie and Julia” has inspired a resurgence of interest in the famed chef’s timeless cookbooks, most notably, her 1961 cookbook, “Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 1.” You’ve seen the movie and bought the cookbook (lucky you, as most stores are sold out), but before you reach for that whisk, be sure you have the best wine to go with the food. As any chef knows, a fabulous meal is only made more fabulous with the proper wine.

Which begs the question: What would Julia drink? There are as many wines as there are fans of Julia Child, and one cannot really know what Julia might have paired with her food. But we can make some educated suggestions. Keep things simple, and look to a single region for ideas: France’s Loire Valley. This area is famed for its range of food-friendly, versatile wines, and it’s always a good place to start.

The valley is a horizontal wedge that runs from the mountains of central France to the coast of Brittany (following approximately 600 miles of Loire River). The sheer breadth of acreage that this region encompasses makes for a staggering variety of soil, climate and wine styles. The Loire grows it all: white, red, rose, sparkling and sweet wines.

Bear in mind the wines here are usually labeled by town, so you’ll have to remember what’s really in the bottle. Chinon and Vouvray are actually appellations known for some of the finest cabernet Franc and chenin blanc, respectively. If a bottle says Sancerre or Pouilly-Fume, you are buying sauvignon blanc. It’s a fair bit to keep in mind. If you prefer, just remember to focus on the Loire region for food wines.

When thinking about food, consider the wine as just one more ingredient in the meal and ask yourself, “What style of wine would taste best if I put it in this dish?” Our suggestions are personal—a guide, if you will.  At the end of the day, drink what you like. You may find something even better. With Julia’s sage guidance and these pairings, any meal you prepare will be memorable.

What’s Cooking Tonight?

Sole Meunière +  Muscadet
Sèvre et Maine
This lovely white fish in a buttery rich sauce will play well with many white wines. A Muscadet, with its crisp freshness is a classic choice for seafood. Indeed, the ocean is not far from the vineyards. When labeled “Sèvre et Maine sur lie,” it means the wine was aged on old yeast to impart a rich, round mouthful that holds up to many dishes. The best part is the price: Most average around $11, but they taste like a lot more.
Try: Domaine de la Tourmaline, 2005, $14

French Onion Soup + Vouvray (chenin blanc) + Saumur (cabernet Franc)
With layers of cheese and beef stock base, this dish plays both sides of the field and works well with red and white wines. Loire has two options for pairing: saumur, a light, fruity red made from the cabernet Franc grape, or a white, Vouvray, aka chenin blanc. The Vouvray boasts a refreshing feminine contrast to the soup’s cheesy richness.
Try: Saumur, Reserve des Vignerons, Val de Loire, 2005, or a Vouvray, Domaine des Aubuisieres, 2007

Boeuf Bourguignon + Chinon
(cabernet Franc)
This dish has Burgundy wine as a major ingredient, and obviously a French Burgundy would pair well. But those are pricey, period. An earthy, supple cabernet Franc from Chinon brings its own magic to the party with violets, ripe fruits and a touch of spice. Expect to pay around $22. Note that cabernet Franc from the Loire comes in a range of styles, so be sure to ask about the wine when buying.
Try: Domaine de Noire, Chinon élégance, 2004, $22

Oyster Bisque + Sancerre
(sauvignon blanc)
Sancerre and seafood make a fine paring. The crisp mineral zip of the Sancerre has citrus and apple notes that give a palate-cleansing freshness after each silken sip of the bisque. A balanced taste experience, to be sure, and extremely satisfying.
Try: Les Baronnes, Henri Bourgeois, 2006 SP