Spice Girls belt out, "Spice up your life." Executive chef and owner Jean-Georges Vongerichten of Spice Market (the new restaurant in the W Hotel Midtown) can do just that. I dined there for lunch this past week with SP contributor Hope Philbrick, and I was excited to see it was more than just a market. When Americans hear "market," they think "store." But Vongerichten grew up visiting real street markets around the globe and has translated some of his favorite vendor treats into gourmet fare for you and me.
Lunch guests can be in and out quickly with the "Bento Box," a 20-minute express lunch offered between 11:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. for $15, which includes fragrant miso soup, shrimp dumplings and herbs; avocado and radish salad with Chinese mustard and tempura onions; a choice between beef satay, chicken skewers or pork satay; cod with Malaysian chili sauce and Thai basil; a choice of brown or Jasmine rice; and a choice of ice cream or sorbet. But Hope and I weren't trying to make it quick. We wanted to take our time enjoying our first experience of Spice Market, and that we did. We started with three appetizers: black-pepper shrimp served over sundried pineapple squares, chicken skewers with a lime-dipping sauce and Vietnamese spring rolls, which we wrapped in arugula lettuce leaves. The dishes were small and perfect for lunch-size sharing. Hope and I agreed that the shrimp was by far our fave out of the apps, but I was impressed with the meat provided on the chicken skewers.
Next we moved on to cod with Malaysian chili sauce and Thai basil, an entree we shared. The white circle of fish was ensconced in a vivid red halo, which was surrounded by an outer layer of lime green (the basil sauce, I imagine). The dish was mildly spicy, by our standards, which we both thoroughly enjoyed. We paired it with a side of baby corn and broccoli with lemongrass and chili--a completely unexpected twist to veggies and a pleasant surprise. Dessert was a medley of deliciousness: strawberry green tea cake with lychee sorbet, spiced peach tatin with ginger ice cream, Vietnamese coffee ice cream and the Thai jewels and fruits made with crushed coconut ice. The sampling of offerings at Spice was a luxurious way to spend a lunch hour (or two) and get to know the global personality of Jean-Georges.
Spice Market is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Valet parking at the W Hotel costs only $6 when your ticket is validated at the restaurant. www.spicemarketatlanta.com.